RV Water Heater Replacement: Save Energy & Money

An electric RV water heater replacement is a critical task for RV owners. This task directly impacts water heater’s efficiency. The electric RV water heaters that are inefficient often lead to increased energy consumption. RV owners can enhance their travel experience by selecting energy-efficient RV water heaters. Furthermore, RV owners can save money on energy costs. The RV water heater replacement process involves several steps. RV owners must carefully disconnect the old unit. RV owners must install the new RV water heaters. It is important to ensure all connections are secure. Regular maintenance of RV water heaters can prevent costly repairs. It can extend the lifespan of the RV water heaters.

Ah, the simple pleasures of RVing! Roaring down the open road, breathtaking views, and… a nice, hot shower at the end of the day. That last one? That’s where your RV water heater comes in, and trust me, it’s way more important than you might think. Imagine trying to wash off campfire smoke with freezing cold water – not exactly the relaxing experience you signed up for, right?

This guide is all about electric RV water heaters – those handy devices that bring a little bit of home comfort to your adventures. We’re going to focus specifically on the electric models, because let’s face it, simplicity is key when you’re on the road. Electric heaters are generally easier to operate and maintain than their propane counterparts, giving you more time to enjoy the scenery and less time fiddling with complicated setups.

Think of this as your friendly, step-by-step guide to replacing your trusty, albeit old and possibly leaking, electric RV water heater. We’ll walk you through the process from start to finish, so you can confidently tackle this project yourself.

Now, before you start grabbing your tools, a little disclaimer: While this guide is designed to empower you with the knowledge to DIY, it’s important to know your limits. If you’re looking at a tangled mess of wires and feeling a wave of panic, or if you’ve never handled plumbing before, it might be time to call in a professional. Complex wiring issues, gas lines, and a general lack of experience are all good reasons to seek expert help. Remember, a little bit of caution can save you a whole lot of trouble (and maybe even a shocking experience – literally!).

Contents

Deconstructing the Beast: Inside Your Electric RV Water Heater

Ever wonder what’s really going on inside that magical metal box that delivers that sweet, sweet hot water after a long day on the road? Let’s pull back the curtain and peek at the inner workings of your electric RV water heater. Think of this section as your water heater’s “anatomy class” – without the formaldehyde.

The Heart of the Matter: The Tank

The tank is literally the heart of your hot water system. It’s where the water hangs out, patiently waiting to be heated. You’ll typically find them in 6 or 10-gallon sizes – which is why you need to ration your showers! Common brands you’ll see are Suburban and Atwood (now Dometic). These tanks are usually made of steel, sometimes with an aluminum lining, built tough to handle the pressure (both water and the pressure of you wanting a long shower). Tank material is important for deciding on an Anode Rod Material.

Turning Up the Heat: The Heating Element

This is the workhorse, the unsung hero of warm showers! The heating element is an electrical component that heats the water directly. Think of it as a giant immersion heater. They come in different wattages, like 1400W or 1500W. The higher the wattage, the faster it heats. It works by running electricity through a resistor, which gets super hot and transfers that heat to the surrounding water.

Keeping it Just Right: The Thermostat

The thermostat is the brains of the operation. It’s like the conductor of a hot water orchestra. It controls the water temperature, keeping it within a specific range – usually somewhere between 120°F and 140°F. It does this by turning the heating element on and off as needed to maintain your preferred temperature. Imagine a tiny little guy in there constantly checking the water with a thermometer and yelling, “More heat!” or “Cool it, buddy!”.

Safety First! The High-Temperature Limit Switch (ECO)

Okay, things are getting serious. The High-Temperature Limit Switch (ECO) is a crucial safety device. Think of it as the panic button. If the water gets TOO hot (due to a thermostat malfunction or other issue), this switch cuts off the power to the heating element. It prevents the water from turning into scalding steam and potentially damaging the tank or, worse, you! Some models have a reset button, but always investigate why it tripped in the first place.

Releasing the Pressure: The Pressure Relief Valve (PRV)

This is another critical safety component. The Pressure Relief Valve (PRV) is designed to prevent the tank from rupturing due to excessive pressure. If the pressure inside the tank gets too high, the PRV will automatically release some water to relieve the pressure. It’s a simple device, but it can save you from a major headache (and a flooded RV). Never tamper with or disable the PRV.

The Unsung Hero: The Anode Rod

This is one of the most overlooked, yet most important part of your water heater! The anode rod is a sacrificial rod made of magnesium, aluminum, or a magnesium/aluminum alloy that corrodes instead of the tank itself. It’s like a superhero taking all the damage to protect the city. By corroding first, it prolongs the life of your tank. Regular inspection and replacement of the anode rod is key to keeping your water heater running for years.

Draining the Swamp: The Drain Plug

Simple but essential, the drain plug is used to drain the tank for winterization or maintenance. They can be plastic or metal. Make sure yours isn’t brittle or about to fail – a broken drain plug is no fun.

Making the Connection: Wiring and Electrical Connections

Your electric RV water heater runs on 120V AC power, just like the outlets in your home. Proper wiring and grounding are essential for safe operation. Always disconnect power before working on any electrical components. If you’re not comfortable working with electricity, hire a qualified electrician.

Ensuring a Solid Link: Electrical Connectors/Terminals

Reliable electrical connections are paramount. Loose or corroded connections can cause overheating and electrical hazards. Use the correct type of connectors for the job and ensure they are properly tightened and insulated.

The Brand Names: Suburban and Atwood/Dometic

Suburban and Atwood/Dometic are two of the most common brands of RV water heaters. Suburban is known for its reliable and relatively simple designs. Atwood (now Dometic) often incorporates different design and material choices in their products. Knowing your brand can help when sourcing parts or troubleshooting issues.

Gathering Your Arsenal: Essential Tools and Materials for the Job

Alright, so you’re ready to tackle this RV water heater replacement! Awesome! But before you go all ‘DIY hero’ on it, let’s make sure you’re equipped with the right tools and materials. Trust me, having the right gear is half the battle (and makes the whole process a heck of a lot smoother). Think of this as prepping for a major quest – you wouldn’t go dragon-slaying with a butter knife, would you?

Before we dive in, picture this: a shiny new water heater sitting next to a pile of misfit tools. Doesn’t quite inspire confidence, does it? Using the correct tools isn’t just about convenience; it’s about safety and doing the job right. Skimping on tools can lead to frustrating setbacks, or worse, potential injuries. So, let’s build your arsenal!

The Tool Lineup: Your RV Water Heater Replacement Dream Team

Here’s a breakdown of the essential tools you’ll need, and why they’re your new best friends:

Wrenches (Various Sizes): You’ll need these for loosening and tightening plumbing connections and the drain plug. A good adjustable wrench will work, but having a set of different sizes (like 1/2″, 3/4″, and 1″) will make your life easier. Imagine trying to loosen a stubborn bolt with the wrong size wrench – talk about frustrating!
Wire Strippers/Crimpers: For making safe and secure electrical connections. These are a must-have for any electrical work. Proper connections prevent shorts, fires, and other electrifying (pun intended!) problems.
Voltage Tester (Non-Contact): I cannot stress this enough: This is absolutely essential for verifying that the power is OFF before you start messing with any wires. This tool could literally save your life. It detects electricity without you having to touch anything. Always double-check before proceeding!
Screwdrivers (Phillips and Flathead): These are your trusty sidekicks for removing and installing screws. A basic set will do the trick.
Thread Sealant/Teflon Tape: For creating watertight seals on pipe threads. Leaks are the enemy! Teflon tape is cheap and easy to use; just wrap it around the threads a few times before connecting the pipes. Make sure you use Teflon tape that is for Plumbing.
Pliers: For gripping and manipulating wires and components. A pair of needle-nose pliers can be particularly handy for those tight spots.
Socket Set: Super helpful for removing and tightening bolts, especially if you’re dealing with older plumbing fixtures.
Multimeter: (Optional, but recommended). This is your detective tool for testing electrical continuity and voltage. If you’re comfortable using one, it can help you diagnose electrical issues quickly.
Work Gloves: To protect your hands from sharp edges, hot surfaces, and general grime.
Safety Glasses: Essential for eye protection. You don’t want any stray debris or splashes getting in your eyes.
Headlamp or Flashlight: For improved visibility in those dark, cramped RV compartments.

The Material Manifest: What You’ll Need to Get the Job Done

Now that you’ve got your tools sorted, let’s gather the necessary materials:

New Electric RV Water Heater: Make sure you’ve got the correct size and model for your RV. Double-check the specs before you buy!
Replacement Anode Rod: Highly recommended to replace this during the process. This sacrificial rod corrodes instead of your tank, prolonging its life. Think of it as a tiny metal hero sacrificing itself for the greater good of your water heater!
New Drain Plug (If Needed): If your old one is damaged or corroded, it’s worth replacing it while you’re at it.
Electrical Connectors/Wire Nuts: For making safe electrical connections. Never just twist wires together and call it good. Use proper connectors.
Extra Wire (Same Gauge): Just in case you need to extend any wires. It’s always good to have a little extra on hand.

Understanding the Systems: A Quick RV Refresher

Before you start wrenching, let’s quickly touch on how your water heater fits into the bigger picture:

RV Plumbing System: Your water heater connects to your RV’s plumbing system via the hot and cold water lines. Understanding how these lines connect will make the removal and installation process much easier.
RV Electrical System: Your electric water heater runs on 120V AC power. It’s crucial to understand how it’s wired into your RV’s electrical system and to always disconnect power before working on it.
Electrical Codes and Safety Standards: These are the rules of the road for electrical work. Adhering to them ensures your safety and prevents potential problems down the line. Check your local electrical codes.

By gathering the right tools, materials, and a basic understanding of your RV’s systems, you’ll be well-prepared to tackle that water heater replacement with confidence!

Step-by-Step: Replacing Your Electric RV Water Heater – Let’s Get This Done!

Alright, buckle up, buttercup! It’s time to tackle that electric RV water heater. I know, I know, plumbing and electricity sound about as fun as a root canal, but trust me, with a little guidance (and a lot of safety!), you can conquer this project. We will break this down into smaller steps:

Safety First: Electrical Safety (Critical!)

WARNING: I cannot stress this enough – electricity is not your friend. It can be lethal, so treat it with the respect it deserves. Before you even think about touching anything electrical, make sure the power is OFF!
Head over to your RV’s circuit breaker panel and flip the breaker that supplies power to the water heater to the “off” position. Don’t just assume it’s off; double-check!
Grab your non-contact voltage tester (this is a must-have for safety!) and wave it around the water heater’s electrical connections. If it lights up or beeps, the power is still on! Find the right breaker and turn it off. Better safe than sorry, right?

Draining the Water Heater – Emptying the Beast

Patience, Padawan! If your water heater has been running, the water inside is probably hotter than a desert sidewalk in July. Let it cool down completely before you even think about draining it. We don’t want any unexpected showers of scalding water!
Locate the drain plug on your water heater. It’s usually at the bottom of the tank. Get your wrench and carefully remove it. Have a bucket or pan ready because, well, water is gonna come out!
Now, to help the draining process, open a hot water faucet somewhere in your RV. This allows air to enter the tank, preventing a vacuum and ensuring a smooth, steady flow. Think of it like poking a second hole in a can of juice – it just pours better, doesn’t it?
If you’re doing this in a campground or somewhere you don’t want to flood, attach a hose to the drain outlet and direct the water away from your RV. Nobody wants soggy neighbors!

Disconnecting the Old Unit: Disconnecting Electrical Connections – Cutting the Cord

Alright, the water’s drained (or mostly drained – expect a little dribble), so it’s time to disconnect those electrical wires. Approach this with the same caution as defusing a bomb.
Before you disconnect anything, grab your phone and take photos of the wiring configuration. Trust me on this one. You’ll thank me later when you’re trying to remember which wire goes where.
Carefully disconnect the wires one by one. If the wire ends are frayed or corroded, use your wire strippers to trim them back to clean, shiny copper. A good connection is a safe connection!

Disconnecting Plumbing – Adios, Hoses!

Time to say goodbye to the hot and cold water lines. Have a bucket and some towels handy because there’s always some residual water lurking in those pipes.
Disconnect the lines using your wrenches. If the fittings are old and crusty, they might be a bit stubborn. A little penetrating oil can work wonders.
Give the fittings a good once-over for any signs of damage or corrosion. If they look questionable, replace them. It’s better to spend a few bucks now than deal with a leak later.

Removing the Old Water Heater – Out with the Old

Now comes the slightly tricky part – wrestling the old water heater out of its compartment.
Remove any screws or brackets holding it in place.
Carefully slide the old unit out. This might require some wiggling and maneuvering. RV compartments are notorious for being tight spaces.
If the water heater is heavy, don’t be a hero! Ask for help. A strained back is not a souvenir you want from this project.

Preparing the New Unit: Installing the New Water Heater – Prepping for the New

Before you even think about shoving that shiny new water heater into place, give it a thorough inspection. Check for any dents, dings, or other signs of damage that might have occurred during shipping.
Apply thread sealant or Teflon tape to the threads of the plumbing connections on the new unit. This is plumbers’ magic for preventing leaks. Wrap the tape in the direction the fitting will be tightened.
If your new water heater didn’t come with a pressure relief valve (PRV) already installed, screw it in now. This is a critical safety device, so don’t skip this step!
Install a new anode rod. Seriously. This sacrificial metal rod protects your tank from corrosion, extending its life. It’s cheap insurance.

Installing the New Water Heater – In with the New

Carefully slide the new water heater into the compartment. Try to align it properly on the first try to minimize any unnecessary wrestling.
Secure it in place with the screws or brackets you removed from the old unit.

Connecting Plumbing – Hooking it Up

Reconnect the hot and cold water lines to the new water heater. Make sure you connect them to the correct inlets! Hot to hot, cold to cold.
Tighten the fittings securely, but don’t go full gorilla on them. Overtightening can damage the fittings or the water heater itself. Snug is good.

Making Electrical Connections – Wiring it Right

Here’s where those photos you took earlier come in handy. Reconnect the electrical wires to the new water heater, matching the wiring configuration from the photos.
Use wire nuts or other approved connectors to make secure connections. Twist the wires together tightly before screwing on the wire nut.
Give each connection a gentle tug to make sure it’s solid. A loose connection can cause all sorts of problems.

Testing the New Water Heater – Time to See if it Works

Now for the moment of truth! Head back to the circuit breaker panel and turn the breaker for the water heater back on.
Carefully check around all the plumbing connections for leaks. If you see any drips, tighten the fittings a little more.
Open a hot water faucet in the RV and let the water heater fill completely. You’ll hear the air sputtering out of the faucet as the tank fills.
Once the tank is full, turn on the water heater and let it run for a while. Monitor the temperature to make sure the thermostat is working properly and the water reaches the desired temperature.

Checking for Leaks and Proper Operation – The Final Exam

Continue to monitor the water heater for leaks for the next few hours or even days. Sometimes leaks can be sneaky and take a while to appear.
Make sure the pressure relief valve (PRV) is not leaking. A little dribble when the water heater is heating up is normal, but a constant leak indicates a problem.
Check the temperature of the water periodically to ensure it’s consistent and not getting too hot.

Water Temperature – Avoiding the Scald

RV water heaters can get really hot. Be aware of scalding temperatures, especially if you have kids or pets.
Adjust the thermostat accordingly to a safe and comfortable temperature.
Consider installing a mixing valve to regulate the water temperature. This is a device that blends hot and cold water to provide a consistent and safe temperature at your faucets.

And there you have it! You’ve successfully replaced your electric RV water heater. Pat yourself on the back, crack open a cold one, and enjoy that hot shower! You earned it!

Troubleshooting Time: When Hot Water Turns Cold (and Other RV Water Heater Woes)

Okay, so you’ve bravely replaced your electric RV water heater. High five! But what happens when things still aren’t quite right? Don’t panic! Every DIY project has its potential hiccups. Let’s troubleshoot some common post-replacement problems with your RV water heater – and how to fix them. Think of me as your virtual RV repair buddy, guiding you through the murky waters of… well, not hot water.

No Hot Water? Brrr!

This is the big one, isn’t it? You’ve done the work, but the shower’s still giving you the polar bear plunge. Here’s where to start:

Is the Circuit Breaker On? I know, it sounds obvious, but triple-check! Sometimes it’s the simple things. A tripped breaker is easily fixed with a flip. Don’t assume it’s on just because it looks like it!
Heating Element Inspection: This is the heart of your electric water heater. If it’s fried, you’re sunk. You’ll likely need a multimeter to test it. If it’s visibly damaged (burnt, cracked), it’s time for a replacement.
Thermostat Test: The thermostat is like the water heater’s brain, regulating the temperature. If it’s faulty, it won’t tell the heating element to turn on. Again, a multimeter is your friend here. If it’s not working, a new thermostat is a cheap and easy fix.
High-Temperature Limit Switch (ECO): This little guy is a safety device that cuts power if things get too hot. Sometimes, it trips accidentally. Look for a reset button (usually a small red button). Push it and see if that solves the problem. If it keeps tripping, there may be an underlying issue that needs professional attention.

Leaks: Nobody Likes a Soggy RV!

A leak can range from a minor annoyance to a major problem. Finding the source is key:

Pinpoint the Source: Is it coming from a plumbing connection? The Pressure Relief Valve (PRV)? Or, gulp, the tank itself? Follow the water to find where it’s originating.
Tighten Fittings: If it’s a plumbing connection, try gently tightening the fitting. Don’t overtighten, or you risk stripping the threads!
Replace Damaged Parts: If a fitting is corroded or damaged, replace it. The PRV can also leak – try replacing it if that’s the culprit.
Tank Leak = Big Problem: Sadly, if the tank itself is leaking, it’s usually game over. A leaking tank usually means it’s time for another replacement.

Tripped Breakers: Stop the Power Outages!

A consistently tripping breaker is a sign of an electrical problem:

Overloaded Circuit: Is your water heater sharing a circuit with other high-power appliances? Try turning off other appliances on the same circuit to see if that fixes the problem.
Short Circuit: This is a more serious issue. Look for damaged wiring or loose connections. If you’re not comfortable troubleshooting electrical issues, call a professional!
Upgrade the Breaker? Only consider this as a last resort and *only* if you are certain the wiring is the correct gauge for a higher amperage breaker. Incorrectly sized breakers can cause fire and electrocution.

Rotten Egg Smell: P.U.!

That awful sulfur smell is usually caused by bacteria in the tank. Don’t worry; it’s usually harmless, but definitely unpleasant.

Flush the Tank: Mix a solution of bleach and water (about 1/4 cup bleach per gallon of water) and flush the tank. Be sure to flush it thoroughly afterward to remove all traces of bleach.
Anode Rod Replacement: The anode rod can react with bacteria to create that smell. Consider replacing your current Magnesium Anode Rod with an aluminum/zinc alloy rod. *__If you have an aluminum tank do not use an aluminum/zinc alloy rod.***_Do not use magnesium if you have a water softener._

Disclaimer: Electrical and plumbing work can be dangerous. If you are not comfortable with any of these troubleshooting steps, please consult a qualified RV technician. Safety first!

Keeping It Hot: Maintenance and Long-Term Care for Your Electric RV Water Heater

Alright, you’ve gone through the trouble of replacing your RV water heater, now how do you keep that baby running smoothly for years to come? Think of it like this: your water heater is kind of like your RV’s heart—you need to take care of it so it can keep pumping out that sweet, sweet hot water. Let’s dive into some simple maintenance tips that’ll make your water heater thank you (if it could, of course). Trust me, a happy water heater means a happy camper!

Regular Inspection: Your Water Heater’s Wellness Check

First up, let’s talk about regular check-ups. No, you don’t need to schedule an appointment with a tiny water heater doctor. Just give your unit a quick once-over every now and then. Look for any signs of leaks around the connections and the pressure relief valve. Peep inside the compartment for any corrosion or damage. Catching small problems early can save you from big headaches (and costly repairs) down the road. A visual inspection can be as simple as walking by and looking for signs of water or corrosion in the area.

Anode Rod Replacement: The Sacrificial Hero

Next, let’s talk about the anode rod – the unsung hero of your water heater. This little guy is made of a special metal that attracts corrosion, sacrificing itself to protect the tank. Think of it as a superhero that takes all the hits for the team! You should replace the anode rod every 1-2 years, or even more often if you notice it’s getting eaten up quickly. Don’t skip this step! A corroded anode rod means your tank is next in line for corrosion, and nobody wants a rusty water tank.

Tank Flushing: Give It a Good Scrub

Just like your own pipes, your RV water heater tank can get a little gunked up over time. Sediment, minerals, and other funky stuff can build up inside, reducing efficiency and potentially causing problems. The solution? Flush that tank annually! It’s like giving your water heater a spa day. Simply drain the tank completely, then use a flushing wand or a garden hose to blast out any sediment. Your water heater will thank you with better performance and a longer lifespan.

Winterization: Prepare for the Freeze

If you live in a colder climate or plan to store your RV during the winter months, winterization is a must. Water expands when it freezes, and that expansion can wreak havoc on your water heater tank and plumbing. Before winter hits, completely drain the water heater. You can even use an air compressor to blow out any remaining water in the lines. This simple step can prevent costly freeze damage and keep your water heater in tip-top shape for the next camping season.

Proper Water Chemistry: Water Filter is Your Friend!

Finally, let’s chat about water quality. If you frequently camp in areas with hard water or questionable water sources, consider investing in a water filter. Hard water contains minerals that can build up inside your water heater, reducing its efficiency and lifespan. A water filter will remove those minerals and other contaminants, keeping your water heater clean and happy. Plus, you’ll enjoy better-tasting water for drinking and showering! Consider this one: using a good quality inline water filter.

Prolonging Heater Life: The Payoff

So there you have it – a few simple tips to keep your electric RV water heater running strong for years to come. By following these maintenance steps, you can avoid costly repairs, extend the life of your water heater, and enjoy plenty of hot showers on your RV adventures. Safe Travels!

Alright, that about wraps it up! Swapping out your RV’s electric water heater might seem daunting, but with a little planning and elbow grease, you’ll be back to enjoying those hot showers on the road in no time. Happy travels!