Critical care is very important for guinea pigs facing health crises, and understanding how to provide it involves managing conditions such as anorexia and ensuring proper nutrition. A guinea pig in critical condition needs immediate attention to address issues like not eating, which can quickly lead to severe health problems if their nutritional needs are not met. The prompt intervention through assisted feeding and supportive measures is essential to stabilize guinea pigs when anorexia or other health issues compromise their well-being.
Okay, guinea pig parents, let’s talk real talk. We all adore our little squeak potatoes, but sometimes, things go south faster than you can say “hay.” Recognizing when your piggy is in a critical condition is absolutely crucial because, let’s be honest, they’re not exactly the toughest creatures on the planet. I mean, have you ever seen one try to climb a ramp? It’s both adorable and a little terrifying.
So, what exactly is a “critical condition” in the guinea pig world? Think of it as any situation where their life is seriously threatened, and they need immediate help. This could be anything from not eating (a HUGE red flag) to struggling to breathe (panic stations!). Guinea pigs are masters at hiding illness, so by the time you notice something is wrong, it can already be quite advanced. That’s why knowing the signs is a game-changer.
Our goal here is to arm you, the loving guinea pig owner, with the knowledge you need to spot trouble early. We’re going to cover some common critical conditions, touch on basic at-home checks you can do, and discuss some initial supportive care measures that might buy you some valuable time. Think of this blog as your “Guinea Pig Emergency First Aid 101.” We’re going to equip you with the knowledge that will help you identify problems early.
Now, for the big, bold, underlined disclaimer: This blog is meant for educational purposes only! It is NOT a substitute for professional veterinary advice. Seriously, if your guinea pig is acting off, please, please, please call your vet ASAP. This blog is here to empower you, not replace the expertise of a trained professional. We’re talking about your furry friend’s life here, and they deserve the best care possible. This is all about helping you be the best guinea pig parent you can be, so you can provide your cavy with the best quality of life and health possible.
Recognizing the Signs: Common Critical Conditions in Guinea Pigs
Okay, guinea pig parents, let’s get real. Recognizing when your furry potato isn’t feeling its best is crucial. Guinea pigs are masters at hiding illness (probably because they don’t want to go to the vet, just like us!), so it’s up to you to be their health advocate. This section is your cheat sheet to spotting common critical conditions early, so you can act fast. Remember this is a guide and not a substitute for veterinary consultation.
Anorexia/Inappetence: When Your Guinea Pig Stops Eating
A guinea pig that stops eating is a major red flag. Think of it this way: guinea pigs are basically tiny eating machines. If they aren’t munching, something is definitely up.
- What it is: Anorexia, in this case, doesn’t mean your guinea pig is worried about their summer body. It simply means they’ve lost their appetite and aren’t eating.
- Why it happens: The potential culprits are numerous: dental problems(overgrown teeth make eating painful), underlying illness, pain, or even stress. A change in environment, a new cage mate, or even a loud noise can throw them off.
- The danger: When guinea pigs don’t eat, their bodies start breaking down fat for energy. This can lead to a serious liver problem called hepatic lipidosis. Basically, their liver gets overloaded, and it’s not good.
Ileus/Gastrointestinal Stasis: Understanding Gut Slowdown
A healthy guinea pig gut is a busy gut. Food should be constantly moving through. Ileus is when that movement grinds to a halt.
- What it is: Ileus, or gastrointestinal stasis, is a slowing down or complete stoppage of gut motility. This means food isn’t being properly digested or passed through.
- Why it happens: Several factors can cause this, like poor diet (not enough fiber!), dehydration, stress, pain from other issues, or even certain medications.
- Spotting it: Look for a lack of fecal pellets (no poop = big problem), a bloated abdomen, and general lethargy. Your usually active piggy suddenly becomes a couch potato.
Bloat/Gastric Dilatation: Dealing with Gas Buildup
Bloat can be scary because it happens quickly and causes extreme discomfort.
- What it is: Bloat refers to the excessive accumulation of gas in the stomach.
- Why it happens: Dietary indiscretion (too many sugary treats, too much gas-producing veggies), bacterial imbalances in the gut, or even secondary to ileus can all be the cause.
- Spotting it: Look for a visibly distended abdomen, signs of discomfort (grinding teeth, hunched posture), and difficulty breathing as the gas presses on their lungs.
Pneumonia: Recognizing Respiratory Distress
Guinea pigs are prone to respiratory infections, and pneumonia can be a serious threat.
- What it is: Pneumonia is an inflammation of the lungs, usually due to an infection.
- Why it happens: Bacterial or viral infections are the most common causes. Overcrowding, poor ventilation, and stress can all weaken their immune system and make them more susceptible.
- Spotting it: Labored breathing (wheezing, rapid breaths), nasal discharge, coughing, and sneezing are all telltale signs.
Dystocia/Pregnancy Toxemia: Addressing Pregnancy Complications
Pregnancy can be risky for guinea pigs, and these complications require immediate veterinary attention.
- What it is: Dystocia refers to a difficult or obstructed birth. Pregnancy toxemia is a metabolic disorder that can occur in late pregnancy.
- Why it happens: Dystocia can occur due to the size or position of the pups. Pregnancy toxemia is often related to inadequate nutrition or stress.
- Spotting it: Signs of dystocia include prolonged labor without pup delivery or obvious signs of distress. Pregnancy toxemia signs include loss of appetite, lethargy, and seizures.
Scurvy (Vitamin C Deficiency): Understanding Systemic Issues
Guinea pigs, like humans, can’t make their own Vitamin C. Without enough, things go downhill fast.
- What it is: Scurvy is a disease caused by severe vitamin C deficiency.
- Why it happens: Lack of vitamin C in the diet. Fresh veggies and fortified guinea pig pellets are essential.
- Spotting it: Watch for weakness, reluctance to move, bleeding gums, rough coat, and joint pain.
Heatstroke/Hypothermia: Managing Extreme Temperatures
Guinea pigs are sensitive to temperature extremes.
- What it is: Heatstroke is overheating, and hypothermia is excessive cooling.
- Why it happens: Heatstroke occurs when guinea pigs are exposed to high temperatures, especially without shade or ventilation. Hypothermia occurs when they are exposed to cold temperatures.
- Spotting it: A guinea pig suffering from heatstroke will be lethargic, panting, and may be drooling. In hypothermia they may shiver or appear stiff.
Trauma: Responding to Injuries
Accidents happen. Knowing how to react can make a huge difference.
- What it is: Physical injuries from falls, fights, or other accidents.
- Why it happens: Lack of supervision, improper handling, or conflicts with other pets.
- Spotting it: Obvious wounds, limping, difficulty moving, or signs of pain.
Post-Surgery Complications: Monitoring After Procedures
Surgery is stressful. Keep a close eye on your piggy afterward.
- What it is: Potential problems after surgery, like infection or wound breakdown.
- Why it happens: Infection at the incision site, poor healing, or self-trauma.
- Spotting it: Redness, swelling, discharge at the incision site, lethargy, or loss of appetite.
Severe Parasitic Infections: Recognizing Overwhelming Infestations
A few mites are bad. A ton of mites is a critical situation.
- What it is: Overwhelming infestations of parasites like mange mites, lice, or ringworm.
- Why it happens: Poor hygiene, contact with infected animals, or weakened immune systems.
- Spotting it: Intense itching, hair loss, scabs, and visible parasites on the skin.
Urolithiasis/Bladder Stones: Addressing Urinary Issues
Bladder stones are incredibly painful and can be life-threatening.
- What it is: The presence of stones in the urinary tract.
- Why it happens: Diet, genetics, or underlying urinary tract infections.
- Spotting it: Straining to urinate, blood in the urine, vocalizing when urinating.
Sepsis: Recognizing Systemic Infection
Sepsis is a body-wide infection. It’s an emergency.
- What it is: A systemic inflammatory response to infection.
- Why it happens: Untreated infections, surgical complications, or weakened immune systems.
- Spotting it: Fever or hypothermia, lethargy, loss of appetite, rapid heart rate, and difficulty breathing.
Multiple Organ Dysfunction Syndrome (MODS): Understanding Organ Failure
MODS is a grim sign, indicating the body is shutting down.
- What it is: The failure of multiple organ systems.
- Why it happens: Usually a consequence of severe underlying conditions like sepsis, trauma, or organ failure.
- Spotting it: Difficult to spot early, it’s often diagnosed when multiple organs are already failing.
Dehydration: Assessing Fluid Loss
Dehydration can quickly become critical in guinea pigs.
- What it is: Lack of sufficient water in the body.
- Why it happens: Decreased water intake, vomiting, diarrhea, or underlying illness.
- Spotting it: Sunken eyes, skin tenting (when you gently pinch the skin, it stays elevated), and dry mucous membranes.
Electrolyte Imbalances: Recognizing Disrupted Minerals
Electrolytes are essential for bodily functions. Imbalances can be dangerous.
- What it is: Disruptions in the levels of essential minerals like sodium, potassium, and chloride.
- Why it happens: Dehydration, kidney disease, or underlying illness.
- Spotting it: Weakness, seizures, muscle tremors, and irregular heart rate.
Hypoglycemia: Managing Low Blood Sugar
Low blood sugar is especially dangerous in young or sick guinea pigs.
- What it is: Abnormally low blood glucose levels.
- Why it happens: Not eating, liver problems, or underlying illness.
- Spotting it: Weakness, seizures, tremors, and loss of consciousness.
Death: Acknowledging a Possible Outcome
It’s hard to talk about, but it’s important to acknowledge that even with the best care, critical illness can sometimes be fatal. This isn’t meant to discourage you, but to prepare you and emphasize the importance of early intervention and getting your guinea pig the best possible care.
Basic Diagnostic Procedures: What to Expect at the Vet
Okay, so your guinea pig is in a bit of a pickle. You’ve rushed them to the vet, and now you’re wondering, “What’s going to happen next?”. Don’t worry; let’s demystify the diagnostic process. Vets have a whole bag of tricks to figure out what’s going on with your furry friend. Here’s a rundown of what you might expect:
Physical Examination: Hands-On Assessment
Think of this as the vet’s version of a detective looking for clues! They’ll start with a thorough physical exam. First, they will check vital signs like heart rate, respiratory rate, and temperature. A guinea pig’s normal heart rate is much faster than yours! The vet will use a stethoscope to listen to the heart and lungs, feeling for any abnormalities. They’ll also be looking at the overall condition of your guinea pig: Is he alert? Is he responsive? Is he dehydrated? All these observations help paint a picture of what’s happening.
Blood Work (CBC, Chemistry Panel): Assessing Organ Function
Next up, blood work. It’s like a sneak peek into your guinea pig’s inner workings! A Complete Blood Count (CBC) checks the number of different types of blood cells, which can reveal signs of infection or anemia. A chemistry panel assesses how well the organs are functioning, especially the liver and kidneys. It also evaluates hydration status and electrolyte balance. The vet will take a small blood sample, and lab results usually come back pretty quickly.
Urinalysis: Evaluating Kidney Function
A urinalysis provides valuable information about kidney function and can detect urinary tract infections. The vet will collect a urine sample, either by free catch, cystocentesis (using a needle to draw urine directly from the bladder), or catheterization. The urine is then analyzed for protein, blood, glucose, and the presence of bacteria or crystals.
Fecal Examination: Identifying Parasites
Yep, you guessed it – it involves poop! A fecal exam helps identify parasites or abnormal bacteria in your guinea pig’s digestive tract. The vet will examine a small stool sample under a microscope, looking for worm eggs, protozoa, or an overgrowth of bad bacteria. This can help pinpoint the cause of diarrhea or other digestive issues.
Radiography (X-rays): Visualizing Internal Organs
X-rays are like snapshots of your guinea pig’s insides! They use radiation to create images of the bones and internal organs. X-rays can help detect broken bones, tumors, bladder stones, or fluid in the lungs. It’s a non-invasive procedure, but your guinea pig may need to be gently restrained to get clear images.
Ultrasound: Imaging Internal Structures
Ultrasound uses sound waves to create real-time images of the internal organs. It’s especially useful for examining the heart, liver, kidneys, and bladder. Ultrasound can detect tumors, cysts, or other abnormalities that might not be visible on X-rays. It’s also used to assess pregnancy in female guinea pigs!
ECG (Electrocardiogram): Monitoring Heart Function
An ECG measures the electrical activity of the heart. Small electrodes are attached to your guinea pig’s skin to record the heart’s rhythm and rate. It can help detect irregular heartbeats, heart enlargement, or other cardiac problems. The vet will analyze the ECG tracing to assess your guinea pig’s heart function.
Initial Treatment Modalities: Providing Immediate Support
Okay, so your little buddy is in a bit of a pickle, huh? Before you race off to the vet (and you are racing off, right?), there are a few things you can do to offer some immediate support. Think of these as first aid, not a cure-all. These techniques, especially administering medication or fluids, should always be done under the explicit guidance of your veterinarian! We’re just prepping you with the knowledge in case your vet advises these steps.
Fluid Therapy (Subcutaneous): Correcting Dehydration
Imagine being stranded in the desert. Thirsty, right? Dehydration is a huge problem for guinea pigs, and it can quickly become life-threatening. If your vet advises it, subcutaneous (Sub-Q) fluids can be a lifesaver. This involves injecting fluids under the skin (usually on the back of the neck). Now, don’t go all rogue doctor on your piggy! Your vet will show you exactly how to do this, the correct amount, and the right type of fluid (usually Lactated Ringers Solution or Saline). Never, ever attempt this without professional instruction. Complications can arise, and we definitely want to avoid those!
Nutritional Support (Syringe Feeding): Providing Essential Nutrients
A guinea pig not eating is a major red flag. Their guts are like tiny, delicate ecosystems that need constant input to function. When they stop eating, things can go downhill fast. That’s where syringe feeding comes in.
- How to Syringe Feed: Again, your vet will show you the ropes. It usually involves using a small syringe (without a needle, of course!) to gently squirt food into their mouth. Go slowly and let them swallow to prevent aspiration.
- What to Feed: The best option is often a critical care formula like “Critical Care” or “Oxbow Critical Care – Herbivore.” These are specially formulated to be easily digestible and packed with nutrients. You can also make a slurry of their regular pellets (soaked in warm water until mushy), but the commercial formulas are usually better. Pro Tip: Warm the food slightly. It’s more appealing!
Pain Management (Analgesics): Relieving Discomfort
Is your guinea pig squealing more than usual? Are they hunched over and listless? They might be in pain. But – and this is a huge but – never, ever give your guinea pig over-the-counter pain meds like ibuprofen or acetaminophen (Tylenol). These are toxic to guinea pigs! Your veterinarian is the only one who can prescribe safe and effective pain relief.
- Safe Analgesic Options: Your vet might prescribe medications like meloxicam or buprenorphine. Follow their instructions to the letter!
Probiotics: Restoring Gut Flora
Remember that delicate gut ecosystem we talked about? When a guinea pig is sick, that ecosystem can get thrown out of whack. Probiotics are like little gardeners, helping to restore the balance of good bacteria in the gut.
- Appropriate Probiotic Products: Look for probiotics specifically formulated for small animals. Bene-Bac is a popular choice. Your vet can also recommend other suitable options.
Vitamin C Supplementation: Addressing Scurvy
Guinea pigs are like tiny pirates; they need their Vitamin C! They can’t produce it themselves, so they need a daily dose. When they’re stressed or sick, their Vitamin C requirements go up.
- How to Supplement: You can give them a small amount of liquid Vitamin C directly by mouth (using a syringe), or offer fresh, Vitamin C-rich veggies like kale or bell peppers.
Heat Support/Cooling Methods: Regulating Body Temperature
Guinea pigs are quite sensitive to temperature, and extremes can be dangerous.
- Heat Support: If your guinea pig is cold (hypothermic), provide gentle warmth. You can use a heating pad set on low (with a towel between the pad and your piggy to prevent burns), a warm water bottle wrapped in a towel, or even a snuggle-safe disc.
- Cooling Methods: If they’re overheating (heatstroke), gently cool them down. Never use ice water! Instead, use a cool, damp towel.
Essential Monitoring Techniques: Keeping a Close Watch on Your Little Buddy
So, your guinea pig is going through a rough patch. You’ve got the vet on speed dial, and you’re doing everything you can. But what happens in between vet visits? That’s where YOU become a super-sleuth, monitoring your little buddy’s vital signs and reporting back to the doc. Think of yourself as a pet detective, and the clues are all in the details! Here’s how to keep a close watch:
Thermometer: Taking the Temperature Like a Pro
Okay, let’s talk about thermometers. Yes, it involves the rear end, but it’s crucial information! You’ll need a small, digital rectal thermometer (the kind you’d use for a baby). Lube it up with some KY Jelly or Vaseline – because nobody wants a dry entry, right? Gently insert it about an inch into the rectum, and wait for the beep. A normal guinea pig temperature is usually between 99-103°F (37.2-39.4°C). Jot it down and tell your vet if it’s too high or too low. The key here is gentle! If your guinea pig is squirming, stop and try again later. Better to be patient than cause more stress!
Observation of Respiration Rate and Effort: Is Your Guinea Pig Breathing Easy?
Put on your observation hat! You want to watch how your guinea pig is breathing. Is it fast? Slow? Labored? A normal guinea pig takes about 40-130 breaths per minute. Count the breaths by watching their chest rise and fall for 15 seconds, then multiply by 4. Note that down! Labored breathing is a big red flag – think heaving, using their belly muscles to breathe, or making weird noises. Also, check their nostrils for any discharge, which can signal a respiratory infection.
Urine Output Monitoring: Pee-Mail from the Kidneys
Next up: pee patrol! You want to make sure your guinea pig is still producing urine. A lack of urine can indicate a serious kidney problem. If you’re using fleece bedding, it can be harder to tell. Try switching to paper-based bedding (like Carefresh) temporarily. This will help you see how much they’re peeing. Less pee than usual? Time to call the vet. Bonus points if you notice any blood in the urine. That’s definitely vet-worthy.
Fecal Output Monitoring: Poop Patrol is a Must!
Poop is a big deal in the guinea pig world! It tells you a LOT about their digestive health. You should be seeing plenty of little brown nuggets. If the poop production grinds to a halt, or you’re seeing diarrhea, something’s wrong. No poop is bad poop in this case, and a vet visit is needed ASAP. Note the consistency and color. Normal poop is firm and brown. Soft, mushy, or discolored poop? Call the vet.
Weight Monitoring: The Scales Don’t Lie
Last but not least, let’s talk weight. Invest in a small kitchen scale and weigh your guinea pig regularly – at least once a day, or even twice a day! Weight loss is a huge red flag. Even a small drop can be significant. A healthy adult guinea pig usually weighs between 1.5 and 2.5 pounds, but the important thing is to watch for any sudden changes. Write down the weight each time, and let your vet know if you notice any significant dips.
Providing Supportive Care: Creating a Healing Environment for Your Guinea Pig
Okay, so your little buddy is going through a rough patch. You’ve rushed them to the vet (hopefully!), and now you’re back home, ready to play nurse. But medicine alone isn’t always enough. Think of it like this: you wouldn’t want to recover from the flu in a messy, noisy room, right? Guinea pigs are no different! Let’s transform your piggy’s space into a healing haven.
Clean and Comfortable Housing: Reducing Stress is Key
Stress is a HUGE no-no when your guinea pig is unwell. It can weaken their immune system and make it harder for them to recover. Imagine trying to relax with a construction crew outside your window – that’s what stress is like for a sick piggy! Keep their cage in a quiet, low-traffic area, away from loud noises, other pets (especially predators!), and bright, glaring sunlight. Make sure their cage is spot-cleaned at least once a day, removing any soiled bedding and uneaten food. You wouldn’t want to eat in a dirty restaurant, and neither does your guinea pig! A clean cage is a happy cage and a healing cage.
Appropriate Bedding: Ensuring Comfort and Hygiene – Bye, Bye Irritation!
Bedding isn’t just for looks! It needs to be comfortable, absorbent, and safe. Avoid cedar or pine shavings, as they contain oils that can irritate your guinea pig’s respiratory system. Instead, opt for fleece liners, paper-based bedding (like Carefresh), or aspen shavings.
- Fleece liners: Super soft and reusable! Just make sure you have a few on hand so you can wash them regularly. You’ll need to wash these at least once every week to keep the bacteria from building up and making your guinea pig sick.
- Paper-based bedding: Highly absorbent and great for controlling odors. Change it frequently to prevent ammonia buildup, which can also irritate their respiratory system.
- Aspen shavings: A good option if properly kiln-dried to remove harmful oils.
Whichever you choose, make sure it’s dust-free and changed regularly to keep your guinea pig clean and dry.
Humidity Control: Maintaining Optimal Levels – Too Dry or Too Damp?
Guinea pigs are sensitive to extreme temperatures and humidity. Ideal humidity levels are between 40-60%.
- Too dry: Can lead to respiratory issues and dry skin.
- Too humid: Can promote the growth of bacteria and fungi.
If your home is too dry, consider using a humidifier nearby (but not directly pointed at the cage). If it’s too humid, ensure good ventilation. You can also use a dehumidifier in the room. Monitoring the humidity is key. A simple hygrometer (humidity monitor) can help you keep track.
Hand Feeding: Assisting with Food Intake – Syringe Savvy!
If your guinea pig isn’t eating on their own, hand-feeding is crucial! Lack of food can lead to many issues. You’ll need a syringe (without the needle, of course!) and a palatable food source. Critical Care is a popular choice, but you can also make a slurry of their regular pellets mixed with water.
- Preparation: Mix the food with water until it forms a smooth, easily syringable consistency.
- Technique: Gently insert the syringe into the side of their mouth, behind their front teeth. Administer small amounts at a time, allowing them to chew and swallow.
- Frequency: Feed them small amounts frequently throughout the day (every 2-3 hours).
It can be messy, but it’s so worth it to get those vital nutrients into your little friend! If they resist, don’t force it. Try offering a different flavor or adding a small amount of fruit juice to make it more appealing. Patience is key!
Regular Grooming: Maintaining Hygiene – Spoil Them While They Heal!
Even if your guinea pig isn’t feeling up to par, keeping them clean is still important. Gently brush their fur to remove any mats or debris. If they have any discharge around their eyes or nose, clean it with a warm, damp cloth. You can even give them a spot clean with a damp cloth if they have any soiled areas. Just avoid giving them a full bath unless absolutely necessary, as it can be stressful and lower their body temperature. Regular grooming promotes comfort, prevents skin problems, and gives you a chance to bond with your furry friend.
Remember, providing supportive care is all about creating a comfortable, stress-free environment that allows your guinea pig to focus on healing. You got this! Your dedication and attention will make a world of difference in their recovery.
Potential Complications: What to Watch Out For
Okay, so you’re doing everything right: syringe-feeding, keeping the cage clean, maybe even singing your guinea pig a little lullaby (we won’t judge!). But even with the best care, things can sometimes take a turn. It’s super important to keep an eye out for potential complications. Think of it like this: you’re the co-pilot, and your vet is the captain. You need to know what warning lights to look for! Here’s the lowdown on what could pop up, so you know when to dial the vet faster than you can say “wheek.”
Sepsis: Systemic Infection
Sepsis is a systemic infection, and it’s like the body’s alarm system going haywire. Instead of fighting the infection, the immune system goes into overdrive and starts damaging everything. It can be tricky to spot, but look out for these:
- Lethargy (way more than usual)
- Loss of appetite (even if you are trying to syringe feed)
- Fever or a surprisingly low body temperature
Multiple Organ Dysfunction Syndrome (MODS): Organ Failure
MODS (or multiple organ dysfunction syndrome) is a big, scary term, but it basically means that several organ systems are starting to fail. This often happens if there’s an underlying severe condition like sepsis. Unfortunately, MODS is tough to treat, and the prognosis is often poor. Watch for:
- Difficulty breathing
- Jaundice (yellowing of the skin and eyes)
- Decreased urine output
Dehydration: Fluid Loss
Dehydration is a biggie, especially if your guinea pig isn’t eating or drinking properly. Remember, little bodies dry out FAST. Check for:
- Sunken eyes
- Skin tenting (gently pinch the skin on their back; if it stays up in a “tent” shape instead of snapping back, they’re dehydrated)
- Dry gums
Electrolyte Imbalances: Disrupted Minerals
Electrolytes (like sodium and potassium) are like the conductors of the body’s electrical system, and when they are off, it can cause issues. Imbalances can happen due to dehydration, kidney problems, or other underlying conditions. You might see:
- Muscle weakness
- Seizures
- Irregular heartbeat
Hypoglycemia: Low Blood Sugar
Hypoglycemia (low blood sugar) is a major concern, especially in guinea pigs who aren’t eating. Their bodies need a constant supply of energy, and without it, things can go downhill quickly. Look for:
- Weakness
- Tremors
- Seizures
Death: A Possible Outcome
Alright, let’s be real. Despite our best efforts and all the amazing care in the world, sometimes death can occur. Critical care is intense, and guinea pigs are delicate. It’s okay to feel sad, angry, or frustrated if this happens. Just know that you did everything you could. And reach out to your vet or a support group if you need to talk.
So, whether you’re a seasoned guinea pig owner or a newbie, remember that critical care is a fantastic tool. With a little patience and the right approach, you can help your little buddy bounce back to their old, wheeking selves in no time!