Dog Aggression: Causes, Training & Solutions

Dog aggression can manifest in various forms within a multi-dog household, potentially leading to serious injuries and a disruption of the home’s harmony, so understanding the underlying causes of inter-dog aggression is very important for the dog owner to address the problem. Implementing effective strategies, such as proper dog training and environmental management, is crucial to mitigate conflicts and foster a peaceful coexistence among canine companions; early intervention by a veterinary behaviorist can help to reveal medical or psychological reasons, and to create a safe and harmonious environment for all dogs in the household.

Okay, let’s talk about something that’s probably got you Googling at 2 AM: dog fights in your own home. Yeah, not exactly the “pack harmony” you were hoping for, right? It’s stressful, it’s scary, and it can leave you feeling totally helpless. Trust me, I get it!

First, let’s get one thing straight: we’re not talking about the occasional sneeze-and-wrestle that happens during playtime. We’re talking about real fights – the kind with snarling, snapping, and maybe even a trip to the vet. That kind of stuff is NOT fun for anyone!

Now, before you throw your hands up in the air, I want you to know there’s hope. Understanding why these scuffles are happening is the first step towards a more peaceful home. It’s kind of like being a detective, but instead of solving a crime, you’re figuring out what’s making Fido and Sparky go at it.

In this guide, we’ll be diving into:

• The sneaky reasons behind dog fights: We’ll break down the common triggers and motivations.
• Practical strategies to keep the peace: Management tips and training techniques.
• When to call in the professionals: Recognizing when you need expert help.
• Essential gear for a safer home: Tools to help you manage and prevent fights.
• Setting realistic expectations: Because Rome wasn’t built in a day, and neither is a peaceful pack.
• Last resort options: The difficult but important decision of rehoming if necessary.

So, take a deep breath. You’re not alone in this! Millions of dog owners has been in this situation!

Decoding the Dynamics: Understanding the Root Causes of Dog Fights

Dog fights never happen for no reason. Think of it like this: even the silliest argument between humans usually has some kind of backstory, right? Well, the same goes for our furry friends. To really nip those fights in the bud, we gotta become canine detectives and figure out why they’re happening in the first place. Identifying your dogs’ individual triggers is key to creating a more peaceful home.

Think of these triggers like the tiny, almost invisible cracks in a dam. Left unaddressed, they can eventually lead to a flood of furry fury. We’re diving deep into the most common culprits behind canine clashes.

Resource Guarding: “Mine! All Mine!”

Ever seen a kid refuse to share their toys? Resource guarding is basically the doggy version of that! It’s when a dog becomes overly protective of something they consider valuable – whether it’s food, a favorite toy, their bed, or even your attention.

How it shows up:

• Growling: A low rumble when someone approaches their treasure.
• Snapping: A quick, defensive bite (hopefully without contact!).
• Guarding Postures: Standing stiffly over the item, chin resting on it, giving the “leave me alone” eye.

Detective Work: Figure out exactly what each dog guards. Is it only high-value treats? A specific squeaky toy? Jot it down, because this info is your secret weapon!

**Territoriality: “This is *MY House!”***

Dogs see your home as their territory, and sometimes, they’re not so keen on sharing. Think of it as their castle, and they’re the furry little guards.

Inside vs. Outside: Indoor territoriality is about protecting their space within the house. Outdoor territoriality is about protecting the yard from squirrels, the mailman, and that suspicious cat next door.

Examples:

• Guarding Doorways: Standing in the doorway, daring anyone to pass.
• Furniture Patrol: Claiming the couch as their personal throne.
• Room Raiding: Specific Rooms may trigger a territory response

Frustration: “I WANT It, NOW!”

Imagine being super close to something you really, really want, but you just can’t get it. That’s frustration, and it can be a major trigger for aggression.

Scenario: Picture this: a dog desperately wants that squirrel taunting him from the window, but he’s stuck inside. All that pent-up energy and desire can boil over, leading to snapping at another dog who happens to be nearby.

Fear: “Back Away, I’m Warning You!”

Fear is a powerful emotion, and when a dog feels threatened, their first instinct might be to lash out in self-defense.

Common Culprits:

• Loud Noises: Thunder, fireworks, vacuum cleaners – oh my!
• Unfamiliar Faces: Strangers, delivery people, the in-laws (kidding… mostly!).
• Vet Visits: Those dreaded needles and thermometers!

Pain/Medical Issues: “I Hurt, Leave Me Alone!”

This one’s super important. Sometimes, aggression isn’t about behavior, but about pain. A dog in pain is more likely to be irritable and lash out.

Possible Causes:

• Arthritis: Stiff, achy joints.
• Dental Pain: A rotten tooth can make anyone grumpy!
• Neurological Issues: Conditions that affect the brain and nervous system.

Action Item: Get a vet checkup! Rule out any underlying medical issues before assuming it’s purely behavioral.

Play That Escalates: “Oops, Things Got Out of Hand!”

Sometimes, dogs get a little too enthusiastic during playtime. What starts as a friendly game of chase can quickly turn into a full-blown fight.

Spot the Difference: Learn to tell the difference between a playful play bow and an aggressive posturing.

Early Warning Signs:

• Stiff Body Language: Less wagging, more rigidity.
• Excessive Mounting: Dominance displays that can trigger fights.
• Constant Bullying: One dog may be bullying the other dogs which leads to fights.

Redirected Aggression: “Wrong Place, Wrong Time!”

This is when a dog’s aggression is aimed at something (or someone) else because they can’t get to the actual trigger.

Example: Remember that squirrel from the frustration example? If another dog walks by while the first dog is fixated on the squirrel, the frustration can be redirected, turning the innocent bystander into a target.

Past Trauma/Lack of Socialization: “Scars Run Deep!”

A dog’s past can definitely influence their present behavior. Dogs who’ve experienced trauma or weren’t properly socialized as puppies are more likely to be fearful and aggressive.

Early Socialization Matters: Exposing puppies to different people, places, and experiences during their critical socialization period (roughly 3-16 weeks) is essential for building confidence and preventing fear-based aggression later in life.

Understanding Dog Behavior Concepts: “Decoding the Canine Code!”

Okay, time for a crash course in doggy psychology. Understanding these concepts will give you a major advantage in preventing fights.

****Body Language: “They’re Talking, Are You Listening?”****

Dogs are constantly communicating through their body language. The key is learning to read the signs.

Common Signals:

• Whale Eye: Showing the whites of their eyes.
• Tucked Tail: Sign of fear or submission.
• Stiff Posture: Ready to pounce or defend.
• Raised Hackles: Fur standing up on their back (not always aggression, but worth noting).

****Calming Signals: “Please, Let’s Not Fight!”****

Dogs use calming signals to try to diffuse tense situations and avoid conflict.

Examples:

• Lip Licking: Quick flicks of the tongue.
• Yawning: Even when they’re not tired!
• Turning Away: Avoiding direct eye contact.

****Displacement Behaviors: “Something’s Not Right…”****

These are behaviors that seem out of context and indicate stress.

Examples:

• Yawning (again!)
• Lip Licking (yep, again!)
• Scratching (when they’re not itchy)

****Fight or Flight Response: “Instinct Takes Over!”****

This is the automatic reaction to a perceived threat. When a dog feels threatened, their body prepares to either fight or flee.

Important Note: This response can override rational behavior, making it difficult to reason with a dog in the heat of the moment.

****Stress Threshold: “The Breaking Point!”****

Every dog has a stress threshold – the point at which their stress levels become overwhelming, leading to reactivity (like aggression).

Key Point: Stress thresholds vary wildly between dogs. What one dog shrugs off, another might find incredibly stressful.

****Impulse Control: “Thinking Before Acting!”****

Impulse control is the ability to resist acting on an immediate urge. A dog with good impulse control is less likely to react impulsively to triggers.

Training Can Help: You can improve a dog’s impulse control through training exercises, such as sit-stays, down-stays, and leave-it commands.

Creating a Peaceful Pack: Management and Prevention Strategies

Okay, so you’ve identified the root of the problem. Now, let’s get practical. Think of creating peace in your home like building a fortress of fluff and harmony! It’s not about punishment; it’s about setting up your dogs (and yourself!) for success. This isn’t a quick fix; it’s a long-term commitment to managing the dynamics in your furry family.

Separate Feeding Areas: No More Food Fights!

Picture this: It’s dinner time. Instead of a free-for-all, we want a Zen-like experience. Feeding dogs in different locations is crucial to avoid resource guarding. Think of it as giving each dog their own personal restaurant!

• Crates or Separate Rooms: This is your go-to move. Crates can be perfect little dining nooks, or you can use separate rooms if you have the space. Imagine a fancy doggy buffet in separate locations.
• Remove Bowls Immediately: Once the meal is over, poof! No lingering, no tempting fate. Clean it up immediately. This prevents any post-meal squabbles.

Individual Toys/Resources: Each Dog Gets Their Own Stuff!

“Mine!” “No, mine!” Sound familiar? Time to break up the squabble.

• Own Set of Belongings: Each dog needs their own set of toys, beds, and blankies. Think of it like siblings – everyone has their own stuff.
• No Communal Toy Boxes: Avoid the dreaded communal toy box. It’s a recipe for disaster. Keep toys separate to prevent any territorial disputes.
• Rotate Toys: Keep things interesting by rotating the toys. It’s like getting new presents all the time! A little surprise goes a long way.

Crate Training: The Ultimate Safe Space

Crates aren’t prisons; they’re doggy dens.

• Safe Spaces: Crates provide a safe and secure place for each dog. It’s their own little sanctuary to retreat to when things get overwhelming.
• Positive Association: Make the crate a happy place! Feed them treats, give them toys, and let them relax inside. Think of it as their personal chill zone.
• Never Punishment: Never, ever use the crate as punishment. It should be a positive refuge, not a jail cell.

Leash Management: Control is Key

Leashes aren’t just for walks; they’re for indoor navigation, too!

• Leashes Indoors: Keep dogs on leashes, especially in the beginning, to prevent them from getting into trouble. It’s like having training wheels on!
• Prevent Access: Use the leash to prevent access to triggers. See a potential problem brewing? Gently guide them away.

Supervision: Eyes on the Prize

Think of yourself as a doggy detective, always on the lookout.

• Constant Monitoring: Pay close attention, especially during high-risk times like feeding or playtime. Be a hawk!
• Early Warning Signs: Learn to recognize the early signs of tension. Stiffening, staring, whale eye (when you see the whites of their eyes) – these are all red flags.

Structured Routine: Predictability is Your Friend

Dogs thrive on routine.

• Predictable Schedule: A consistent daily schedule can reduce anxiety and make your dogs feel more secure.
• Consistent Times: Set specific times for feeding and exercise. Routine is the secret sauce to a calmer household.

Muzzles: Temporary Safety Net

Okay, let’s talk muzzles. They’re not a solution, but they are a tool in the toolbox for immediate safety.

• Temporary Safety: Muzzles are a temporary safety measure. They can prevent bites while you’re working on the underlying issues.
• Basket Muzzles: Use basket muzzles that allow the dog to pant, drink, and take treats. They’re the most comfortable and humane option.
• Proper Introduction: Introduce the muzzle gradually and positively. Treats, praise, and patience are key.
• Warning: Muzzles are NOT a long-term solution. They don’t address the root cause of the aggression.

Baby Gates/Physical Barriers: Divide and Conquer

Think of baby gates as peacekeepers!

• Safe Zones: Physical barriers create safe zones within the house where dogs can have their own space.
• Exercise Pens: Use baby gates or exercise pens to divide the house and give each dog their own territory. It’s like setting up doggy embassies.

Early Intervention: Stop Trouble Before It Starts

Be a proactive problem-solver.

• Subtle Signs: Address subtle signs of tension immediately. Stiffening, staring, or a tense posture are all signs that trouble is brewing.
• Interrupt Interactions: Learn how to interrupt potentially aggressive interactions. A simple “Hey!” or a clap of your hands can be enough to break the tension.

Desensitization and Counter-Conditioning (DS/CC): Changing Emotions

This is where the real magic happens!

• Emotional Responses: DS/CC changes a dog’s emotional response to triggers. If your dog is reactive to other dogs when on a walk, DS/CC helps make him feel neutral or even positive about seeing other dogs.
• Simplified Example: If your dog is resource guarding a toy, start by giving him the toy. Then, from a distance, toss him a high-value treat. Over time, he’ll associate the approach of someone with good things.
• Patience: DS/CC takes time and patience. Don’t rush the process. It’s a marathon, not a sprint.

Positive Reinforcement Training: Rewarding Good Behavior

Focus on what you want your dogs to do, not what you don’t.

• Desired Behaviors: Reward desired behaviors with treats, praise, or toys. It’s like saying, “Yes! That’s exactly what I wanted you to do!”
• Impulse Control: Build positive associations and improve impulse control through training.

“Leave It” Command: The Ultimate Disengagement Tool

This command is a lifesaver.

• Ignore/Move Away: Teach your dogs to ignore or move away from something on command.
• Step-by-Step:
  1. Place a treat on the floor and cover it with your hand.
  2. When your dog tries to get the treat, say “Leave it!”.
  3. Once your dog backs away, give them a different treat from your other hand.
  4. Repeat!

“Place” Command: Go to Your Spot!

“Place” creates structured calm.

• Specific Spots: Direct dogs to specific spots (a bed, a mat) to manage their proximity.
• Teaching “Place”:
  1. Lure your dog to their “place” with a treat.
  2. Say “Place!” as they step onto the bed or mat.
  3. Reward them with a treat and praise.
  4. Gradually increase the time they stay on their “place.”

Time-Outs: Cool-Down Period

When things get heated, a time-out can help.

• Brief Isolation: Interrupt escalating behavior with brief isolation.
• De-escalate: Time-outs are for de-escalation, not punishment. Put the dogs in separate rooms or crates to allow them to cool down.

Calling in the Experts: When to Seek Professional Help

Okay, so you’ve tried everything. You’ve separated feeding areas, bought enough toys to fill a small warehouse, and mastered the art of the “Leave It” command. But those canine squabbles? Still happening. It’s time to bring in the big guns, and guess what? That’s not a failure; it’s responsible pet ownership. Think of it like this: you wouldn’t try to fix your car’s engine with a YouTube tutorial if you had no clue what you were doing, right? Same logic applies here.

When is it Time to Call for Backup?

There are definite signs to look for when you’re in over your head:

• Increasing Frequency & Intensity: The fights are happening more often, and they’re getting scarier. If you’re worried about serious injury to your dogs or yourself, it’s time.
• Unpredictability: You can’t pinpoint the triggers anymore. It seems like they’re going at it for no reason at all. That’s a red flag.
• Behavior Changes: One or both dogs are becoming withdrawn, anxious, or showing other signs of stress even when they’re not fighting.
• Your Own Stress Levels: Let’s be real, dealing with dog fights is exhausting. If it’s impacting your mental health and quality of life, it’s time to prioritize everyone’s well-being and call in a pro.

Who’s Who in the Dog Behavior World?

The world of dog behavior can be a bit confusing, so let’s break down the different roles:

Certified Professional Dog Trainer (CPDT-KA)

• What they do: These trainers are your go-to for general behavior modification. They can help with basic obedience, impulse control, and teaching alternative behaviors to aggression. Look for a trainer with experience in aggression cases – it’s not the same as teaching a puppy to sit.
• Why you need them: A good trainer can help you implement behavior modification techniques, like desensitization and counter-conditioning, and teach you how to manage your dogs’ environment to minimize conflict.

Veterinary Behaviorist (DVM, DACVB)

• What they do: These are veterinarians who have specialized in animal behavior. They can diagnose and treat behavioral issues with both behavior modification and medication. They are the only professionals qualified to prescribe medication for behavior problems.
• Why you need them: If the aggression is severe, has a suspected medical component, or isn’t responding to training alone, a veterinary behaviorist is essential. They can identify underlying medical issues contributing to the problem and determine if medication could help. Medication isn’t a magic bullet, but in some cases, it can significantly improve a dog’s ability to learn and cope.

Applied Animal Behaviorist (Ph.D. or Master’s level)

• What they do: These individuals hold advanced degrees in animal behavior and focus on the science behind behavior. They can create and implement behavior modification plans, often working in conjunction with trainers and veterinarians.
• Why you need them: An applied animal behaviorist brings a deep understanding of animal behavior principles to the table. They are experts in analyzing complex behavioral issues and designing tailored interventions. While they can’t prescribe medication like a veterinary behaviorist, their expertise can be invaluable for creating comprehensive behavior modification strategies.

Veterinarian

• What they do: Your regular vet is your first stop! They can rule out any medical causes for the aggression, like pain, thyroid issues, or neurological problems.
• Why you need them: Pain can make even the sweetest dog grumpy and aggressive. Before assuming it’s “just a behavior problem,” make sure your vet gives your dog a thorough checkup. Even if there’s no obvious injury, underlying pain can dramatically affect behavior.

Equipping for Success: Must-Have Gear for a (Hopefully) Peaceful Home

Okay, so you’re ready to gear up and tackle this whole dog-fight-prevention thing? Smart move! Think of it like preparing for a camping trip, but instead of bears, you’re dealing with… well, furry little land sharks (kidding…mostly!). Having the right equipment can seriously make a huge difference in managing the situation and keeping everyone safe (two-legged and four-legged!). Let’s dive into the arsenal, shall we?

The Essentials: Your Dog-Fight-Prevention Toolkit

• Leashes:

  • These aren’t just for walks in the park! They’re your lifeline for controlling your dog’s movements, especially in those trigger-heavy areas of your house.
  • Different lengths matter: A shorter leash (4-6 feet) is great for indoor management and training, giving you close control. A longer leash (15-30 feet), a long line, can be helpful for outdoor training in a controlled environment, allowing for more distance while still maintaining some control.

• Harnesses:

  • Think of a harness as a more polite way to guide your dog. Instead of pressure on the neck, the harness distributes it across their body.
  • This is especially useful if you have a dog who tends to pull or get overly excited. It gives you better control and prevents any potential neck strain.

• Crates:

  • Ah, the humble crate – a safe haven, a doggy den, a place to chill without worrying about squabbles.
  • Size matters: Make sure each dog’s crate is big enough for them to stand up, turn around, and lie down comfortably.
  • Wire vs. Plastic: Wire crates offer better ventilation and visibility, while plastic crates can feel more den-like and secure.

• Baby Gates (or Exercise Pens):

  • Your home is now a strategic battlefield… erm, I mean, a carefully planned living space! Baby gates are your walls, creating safe zones and preventing unwanted interactions.
  • Pressure-mounted vs. Hardware-mounted: Pressure-mounted gates are easy to install and move, but hardware-mounted gates are more secure, especially for strong or determined dogs.

• Muzzles (Basket Muzzles ONLY):

  • Okay, I know muzzles can seem scary, but hear me out! A basket muzzle, when introduced correctly, is like a safety net. It prevents bites while still allowing the dog to pant, drink, and take treats.
  • Important: This is a temporary management tool, NOT a long-term solution. And please get professional help with desensitizing your dog to wear it!

• Food Bowls: Separate is the Name of the Game!

  • Forget family-style dining! Each dog gets their own bowl, in their own designated area. This eliminates any food-guarding anxieties.
  • Slow-feeder bowls: If you have a chowhound who inhales their food in seconds, a slow-feeder bowl can help prevent bloat and make mealtime a bit more relaxing.

• Water Bowls: Hydration Stations

  • Just like with food, each dog should have access to fresh water.
  • Multiple stations: Place water bowls in different areas of the house, so there’s no competition.

• Toys: Individual Playtime is Key

  • No communal toy box here! Each dog gets their own stash of toys. This reduces the chance of resource guarding over that one squeaky hedgehog.
  • Durable and Safe: Choose toys that can withstand some serious chewing and don’t have small parts that can be swallowed.

• Treats: Your Secret Weapon

  • Treats are your currency in the dog training world. Use them to reward good behavior and create positive associations.
  • High-value vs. Low-value: High-value treats (like bits of chicken or cheese) are for really important stuff, like nail trims or ignoring another dog. Low-value treats (like kibble) are great for everyday training.

• Clicker: The Sound of Success!

  • A clicker is a small device that makes a distinct “click” sound.
  • The basics: You pair the click with a treat, so the dog learns that the click means “good job!” Then, you can use the click to mark the exact moment they do something you want them to do, making training much more precise.

So, there you have it! Your essential gear list for creating a more harmonious home. Remember, this equipment is just a tool – the real work is in understanding your dogs, managing their environment, and seeking professional guidance when needed. Now go forth and conquer… those canine conflicts!

Setting Realistic Expectations: It’s a Marathon, Not a Sprint!

Okay, let’s get real. You’ve started down this road, learning about triggers, training, and tools to manage your doggy disputes. But before you invest completely, I want to set some realistic expectations. Changing dog behavior (or any behavior, honestly) isn’t like flipping a light switch. It’s more like growing a garden. You plant the seeds (training), water them regularly (consistency), and weed out the problems (managing triggers). And even then, sometimes you get a few unexpected surprises!

Safety First, Always!

First and foremost: SAFETY. I can’t stress this enough. You can’t help your dogs if you get injured. Your well-being is paramount, and so is the well-being of the dogs. Never, ever put yourself in a situation where you could be seriously bitten. If a fight is escalating and you feel unsafe intervening, don’t. Seriously. Use a long pole (a broom handle could work) or a loud noise to startle them and break it up from a distance.

No Fairy Tale Endings (Usually)

Let’s face it: sometimes, despite your best efforts, you may not achieve a perfect, peaceful utopia. I’m not saying to throw in the towel. I am saying, don’t beat yourself up if total aggression elimination isn’t in the cards. Success might look like fewer fights, less intense fights, or even just being able to predict and prevent them before they start. Aim for management, not necessarily a magical cure. Lowering the frequency and intensity of fights can be a win.

Consistency is Key (Like, REALLY Key)

Think of your training and management strategies as a new language you’re teaching your dogs. If you only speak that language sometimes, they’ll get confused. Consistency is absolutely critical. Everyone in the household needs to be on the same page. That means consistent rules, consistent training, and consistent responses to certain behaviors. No exceptions. Even Grandma, who sneaks the schnauzer a treat under the table when no one is looking, can undermine all of your hard work.

Patience, Grasshopper

Rome wasn’t built in a day, and your dogs won’t transform overnight. There will be good days and bad days. There will be breakthroughs and setbacks. Don’t get discouraged. Celebrate every small victory – a successful training session, a peaceful mealtime, a day without a single growl. Remember that behavior change takes time, dedication, and unwavering patience. In this dog fight prevention journey patience is king.

Keep the Experts on Speed Dial

Even the most dedicated DIY-er needs a professional now and then. Don’t be afraid to keep your trainer or veterinary behaviorist in the loop. Regular check-ins can help you fine-tune your strategies, address new challenges, and stay on track. Think of it as preventative maintenance for your multi-dog household. These professionals can offer insight, support, and course correction as you navigate this challenging but hopefully rewarding journey.

When To Wave The White Flag: Understanding Rehoming

Alright, let’s get real. You’ve tried everything. You’ve got the crates, the muzzles, the “Leave It” command echoing in your dreams. You’ve practically got a Ph.D. in canine body language. But despite your best efforts, the doggie drama in your home is still at a fever pitch. What then?

It’s time to consider a very tough topic: rehoming. No one wants to think about giving up a beloved pet, but sometimes, it’s the most compassionate thing you can do. This isn’t an easy decision, and it’s definitely not one to take lightly. Think of it as your absolute last resort, when every other door has been slammed shut.

The “When Is It Time?” Talk

So, how do you know when you’ve reached the point where rehoming should be on the table? It boils down to a few key scenarios:

• Severe Aggression: We’re talking consistent, escalating aggression that poses a real risk. This is when the behavior is a threat to the safety of people or other animals in the home.
• Repeated Injuries: If your dogs are constantly getting into fights that result in injuries (despite your best efforts to prevent them), it might be time to consider different living situations. We don’t want anyone needing stitches every other week.
• Inability to Manage: Maybe you’re physically unable to separate the dogs quickly enough, or the stress of managing their interactions is taking a serious toll on your mental health. Your well-being matters too!

Finding the Right Fit: A Responsible Rehoming

If you’ve reached the difficult conclusion that rehoming is the best option, it’s crucial to do it responsibly:

• Single-Dog Home: Ideally, the dog would go to a home where they’re the only pet. This eliminates the potential for further conflict and allows them to thrive without the stress of competition.
• Experienced Owners: Look for someone with experience handling dogs, especially those with behavioral challenges. Experience is key here.
• Honesty is the Best Policy: Be upfront and honest about the dog’s history and behavioral issues with potential adopters. Transparency is key to finding the right match and ensuring the dog’s long-term success.

It’s Okay to Grieve (and Get Support)

Let’s be honest: Rehoming a dog is emotionally brutal. It’s okay to feel sad, guilty, or even angry. Allow yourself to grieve the loss of your furry friend, and don’t hesitate to seek support from friends, family, or a therapist. And remember, making this tough choice doesn’t make you a bad pet owner. It means you’re putting the dog’s needs first, even when it hurts like heck.

So, that’s the lowdown on keeping the peace between your pups. It might take some time and patience, but a harmonious home is totally achievable. Remember, every dog is different, so tweak these tips to fit your furry family. Good luck, you’ve got this!